Collagen, a protein abundant in the extracellular matrix and connective tissues of humans and animals, is gaining popularity in the food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Common products that contain collagen include facial masks and moisturizers, hair and lip masks, as well as oral collagen supplements and other applications. Despite its popularity, several important factors must be considered when formulating with collagen, including its compatibility with other ingredients based on the intended application, as well as the source of collagen, which can be derived from bovine, poultry, porcine or marine sources. This report highlights the use of collagen in product formulation, key considerations for formulating with collagen, its compatibility with other active ingredients, and its application across various product formats.  

Collagen Based Materials in Cosmetic Applications: A Review 

The review article by Sionkowska et al., (2020) reports on collagen-based materials in cosmetic applications and recent advancements in the field. It examines the available sources of collagen, the use of collagen in the cosmetic industry, and the specific types of collagen currently used in cosmetic products. Collagen ingredients are popular in hair and skin care products, as well as in aesthetic medicine due to its humectant, moisturizing, and tissue-regeneration abilities. Additionally, collagen has film-forming properties which help to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). These film-forming properties can be enhanced by adding elastin, keratin, silk fibroin, or hyaluronic acid to cosmetic products. The addition of polymeric/biopolymeric molecules in a cosmetic collagen product binds to the collagen and enhances the film-forming properties. The type of collagen used in cosmetics is typically derived from bovine, porcine, or marine sources. Among these, marine-derived collagen is generally preferred due to the potential risk of zoonotic disease transmission associated with mammalian sources.  Marine organisms like the jellyfish R. pulmo species are rich source of collagen and elicits biological properties similar to human-type I collagen, the most prevalent type of collagen found in human skin. It is suggested that marine sources such as tilapia, codfish, and silver carp have the highest collagen content. In particular, hydrolyzed marine collagen is favoured in cosmetic formulations because it can be used in emulsions at high temperatures and offers effective moisturizing abilities. Collagen extraction methods for cosmeceuticals vary by source, with neutral salt solutions used for young animals due to fewer crosslinked bonds, and acidic extraction preferred for older animals. Further studies are warranted to compare the efficacy of topical collagen cosmetics versus oral collagen supplementation in enhancing skin appearance. 

Access to the study: https://doi.org/10.3390/ma13194217 

Reference: Sionkowska, A., Adamiak, K., Musiał, K., & Gadomska, M. (2020). Collagen Based Materials in Cosmetic Applications: A Review. Materials (Basel, Switzerland), 13(19), 4217. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma13194217  

Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen Serum from By-Product of Food Industry: Cosmetic Product Formulation and Facial Skin Evaluation 

Asian seabass skin has recently been investigated as a source of hydrolyzed collagen, as it is a commonly discarded aquaculture by-product in Thailand. Notably, marine collagen primarily consists of type I collagen, the same type found in human facial skin, highlighting its potential for cosmetic applications. Collagen derived from marine sources has been utilized across a wide range of products, including cosmetics, food items, pharmaceuticals, and other applications. Amnuaikit et al., (2022) conducted a 4-week study to assess cosmetic products using hydrolyzed marine collagen on the physical, chemical, and stability profiles, and its effect on human facial skin. A total of 40 healthy male and female volunteers (age 21-70 years) were included in the study. Researchers carried out a skin irritation test and Visia skin analysis on the participants, which was performed at week 0, week 2, and week 4 of the study period. The hydrolyzed collagen (HC) used for the cosmetic product was sourced from the skin of Asian seabass and was formulated into a powder and then added the following ingredients to form a serum; disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate (disodium EDTA), vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin B3, polysorbate 20, propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, sodium hydroxide, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, perfume, and water. Participants were instructed to apply 1 mL of the serum twice daily onto clean facial skin and to spread evenly until absorbed. Participants followed these instructions for 1 month. The results suggest that formulating serum with marine HC had good stability after storage for 6 months. The product enhanced facial skin moisture, reduced skin pores and wrinkles, and brightened skin after regular use for 2 weeks. Overall, HC from Asian seabass skin offers a sustainable method to re-formulate marine by-products for cosmetic uses. The investigational product seemed to have good stability in this formulation and may improve skin parameters when used as part of a regular cosmetic facial serum. 

Access to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/14/24/16553  

Reference: Amnuaikit, T., Shankar, R., & Benjakul, S. (2022). Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen Serum from By-Product of Food Industry: Cosmetic Product Formulation and Facial Skin Evaluation. Sustainability, 14(24), 16553. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142416553  

The Effects of Dietary Supplementation with Collagen and Vitamin C and Their Combination with Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Density, Texture and Other Parameters: A Randomised, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial 

Collagen is a structural protein naturally present in the skin, where it plays a critical role in maintaining strength and elasticity. Similarly, hyaluronic acid (HA) helps preserve skin hydration and structural integrity. Over time, reactive oxygen species (ROS) and increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) contribute to visible signs of ageing by accelerating the degradation of collagen and HA. This randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study was conducted to assess the effects of daily consumption of a collagen formulation containing hydrolyzed collagen (HC) from bovine sources, vitamin C, and HA over 16-week period. A total of 87 women aged 40-65 years participated in this study and were randomly assigned into the following groups: 1) 5 grams HC + 80 mg vitamin C (CP group), 2) 5 grams HC + 80 mg vitamin C + 30 mg hyaluronic acid (CPHA group), or 3) placebo. The investigational products were formulated into a syrup, which was to be consumed at a dose of 15 mL each day with a meal, for a total duration of 16 weeks. Skin parameters, including dermis density, thickness, skin hydration, and viscoelasticity, were assessed at baseline, week 8, and week 16. Skin roughness and wrinkles were additionally assessed at baseline and week 16. Both the CP group and the CPHA group observed significant improvements in dermis density, skin roughness and decreased wrinkle volume compared to the placebo group after the 16-week intervention. However, there did not seem to be significant changes to skin elasticity or hydration after intervention. Also, the addition of HA to the hydrolyzed collagen formulation did not seem to elicit additional benefit. Oral collagen formulations continue to be explored, including blends with vitamin C and HA due to their potential to inhibit the degrading effects of ROS and MMPs. However, further research is needed to determine effective dosages and how these formulations compare to HC alone.  

Access to article: https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/16/12/1908 

Reference: Žmitek, K., Žmitek, J., Hristov, H., Rogl Butina, M., Keršmanc, P., & Pogačnik, T. (2024). The Effects of Dietary Supplementation with Collagen and Vitamin C and Their Combination with Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Density, Texture and Other Parameters: A Randomised, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial. Nutrients, 16(12), 1908. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu16121908  

Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation 

Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is widely used in cosmeceuticals for its antioxidant and moisturizing properties, which help reduce visible signs of skin aging when administered topically or orally. These effects are largely attributed to its content of hydrophobic amino acids. HC has gained popularity in cosmetic formulations due to its safety, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and low antigenicity, making it a highly effective ingredient in topical formulations. This review assesses the effects of both oral administration of collagen hydrolysates and topical formulations on skin parameters. A key challenge in developing cosmetic formulations for fine lines and wrinkles is effectively targeting the periocular and perioral areas. These are regions of the face that are particularly susceptible to fine lines and wrinkles due to repeated facial expressions. Another key consideration is the source of collagen used in formulations, particularly marine-derived collagen sourced from fish or algae, which research suggests is beneficial for skin moisturization and is increasingly favored in cosmetic applications. An important factor when formulating with collagen is to address skin dryness, which is a major contributor to skin aging. To help retain moisture and prevent water loss from the skin, humectants are often added alongside collagen. Additionally, due to collagen’s low skin permeability, it is essential to incorporate supporting ingredients that enhance its absorption in topical applications. Overall, this article highlights key challenges in addressing age-related skin changes, including expression lines, collagen sources, factors contributing to skin aging, and the importance of incorporating ingredients that enhance collagen’s effectiveness as a bioactive ingredient in topical formulations. 

Access to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/9/2/181 

Reference: Aguirre-Cruz, G., León-López, A., Cruz-Gómez, V., Jiménez-Alvarado, R., & Aguirre-Álvarez, G. (2020). Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation. Antioxidants, 9(2), 181. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox9020181  

Bottom Line  

Collagen is found in both animals and humans, and its use has been increasing in popularity in the nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries, offering a variety of potential applications as a bioactive ingredient (Sakpal et al, 2021). With its antioxidant properties, collagen may help improve skin appearance and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote wound healing when administered topically or orally (Sakpal et al, 2021). Novel formulations continue to be explored, including the addition of new ingredients to further support the efficacy of collagen in the formulations. Future human clinical trials are needed to evaluate the safety and efficacy of these new ingredients in cosmetic and topical applications. 

References 

Sakpal, A., Patil, S., Patil, S., Date, A., Prasad, V., Dasgupta, S., & Bhadra, B. (2021). A guide to collagen sources, applications and current advancements. Systematic Bioscience and Engineering. http://ojs.wiserpub.com/index.php/SBE/