Collagen Science Update – January 2025 Edition
Collagen, which makes up 95% of human skin, plays a crucial role in maintaining the structure and resilience of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM). Its role becomes even more significant as aging, lifestyle, and environmental factors all impact collagen production, and the appearance of the skin. Collagen is a popular protein used in food products, cosmeceuticals, and pharmaceuticals for its benefits to hair, skin and nail health. However, the bioavailability of collagen is a concern since the peptide chain does not always break down into its bioactive form, which is more easily digested and absorbed through the intestinal epithelial membrane. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) describes collagen that has undergone hydrolysis, rendering a smaller and more digestible peptide chain. HC is typically derived from bovine, chicken or porcine sources; however, marine-based collagen has gained popularity due to its increased bioavailability, meaning enhanced absorption through the gastrointestinal barrier. Moreover, concerns over inflammatory and immune responses, as well as disease prevalence in land animals, have led to ethical and regulatory challenges in collagen sourcing. As a result, marine sources are being explored as a safer and more convenient alternative. Marine-derived collagen offers several advantages, including high collagen content, environmental sustainability, minimal presence of contaminants and toxins, low inflammation risk, better absorption, fewer ethical and religious concerns, and fewer regulatory issues. This edition highlights four recent studies involving the benefits of marine-based collagen on skin and hair health.
A randomized, triple-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel study to evaluate the efficacy of a freshwater marine collagen on skin wrinkles and elasticity
With age, the elastic capacity of the skin becomes damaged, resulting in lack of elasticity, fragmentation, and weakened collagen bundles. This leads to wrinkle formation and a reduction in skin appearance. The present study assessed the safety and efficacy of hydrolyzed freshwater marine collagen supplementation on aspects of skin health and quality. A total of 50 women aged 45-60 years took part in this 12-week randomized, triple-blind, controlled study. Participants were randomized into either 1) 10 g hydrolyzed marine collagen (derived from Pangasius hypopthalmus) or 2) placebo (maltodextrin powder), dissolved in water daily for 12 weeks. Skin wrinkles, elasticity, and self-reported appearance at baseline, week 6, and week 12 were assessed using a facial imaging system, a negative pressure suction method (Cutometer®), and a Visual Analogue Scale (VAS). After 12 weeks of supplementation with marine collagen, participants had a significant 35% reduction in wrinkles from baseline, and a 24% reduction in wrinkles, relative to placebo. A subgroup analysis on participants aged 45-54 years revealed a significant 20% and 10% improvement in cheek skin elasticity from baseline to week 6 and 12 respectively. At week 12, participants in the collagen group reported greater improvements in overall skin score, wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, radiance, and firmness compared to placebo. Overall, this study demonstrates the use of fish-derived collagen to improve skin health in an aging population. Future studies are needed to examine the potential synergistic effects of marine collagen with other skin enhancing nutrients.
Access to the study: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.13676
Reference: Evans M, Lewis ED, Zakaria N, Pelipyagina T, Guthrie N. A randomized, triple-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel study to evaluate the efficacy of a freshwater marine collagen on skin wrinkles and elasticity. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20(3):825-834. doi:10.1111/jocd.13676
Efficacy and tolerability of an oral supplement containing amino acids, iron, selenium, and marine hydrolyzed collagen in subjects with hair loss (androgenetic alopecia, AGA or FAGA or telogen effluvium). A prospective, randomized, 3-month, controlled, assessor-blinded study
Androgenic alopecia (AGA) is one of the most common causes of hair loss in both men and women and is characterized by miniaturization of the hair follicle. Telogen effluvium (TE) is another condition of hair loss that occurs due to psychological stress. There is currently a lack of treatments for hair loss conditions and current treatments produce satisfactory hair regrowth in only 50-60% of patients. For these reasons, more treatment options are needed. Supplementation with marine-based hydrolyzed collagen (HC) has shown promise in improving skin and nail health. Recent studies demonstrate HCs ability to enhance hair thickness and proliferation, though more evidence is needed to prove its efficacy in conditions of hair loss. The present study assessed the impact of an oral marine-based HC supplement in participants with AGA or TE-related hair loss in combination with drug treatment or drug treatment alone (e.g., minoxidil or finasteride). A total of 76 adults age 18 years and older took part in this 12-week prospective, randomized, blinded controlled trial. Participants were randomized into two groups: group A received oral marine-based HC supplement (300mg/dose) with amino acids; taurine, cystine, methionine and iron and selenium daily in addition to drug treatment. In contrast, group B received only the drug treatment. Photographs of the head were taken using a stereotactic positioning device and assessed by the Global Assessment Score (GAS) at baseline, week 6, and week 12. A higher GAS score indicates ‘much improved’ whereas a lower GAS score indicates ‘much worsened’. After 12 weeks, group A had a significantly higher GAS score compared to group B. Overall, when combined with drug treatment, marine-based HC oral supplement with amino acids, iron, and selenium significantly improves the efficacy of anti-hair loss treatments in participants affected by AGA and TE related hair loss, compared to drug treatment alone.
Access to this study: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37357646/
Reference: Milani M, Colombo F; GFM-O-Trial Investigators Group: Chiara Baraldo (Padova), Mauro Barbareschi (Milano), Paolo Chieco (Ruvo di Puglia), Laura Colonna (Roma), Mandel Victor Desmond (Modena), Maria Cristina Fiorucci (Genova). Efficacy and tolerability of an oral supplement containing amino acids, iron, selenium, and marine hydrolyzed collagen in subjects with hair loss (androgenetic alopecia, AGA or FAGA or telogen effluvium). A prospective, randomized, 3-month, controlled, assessor-blinded study. Skin Res Technol. 2023;29(6):e13381. doi:10.1111/srt.13381
Effect of collagen tripeptide and adjusting for climate change on skin hydration in middle-aged women: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial
Recent studies suggest that marine-based collagen may have the potential to improve skin health. However, much of this research overlooks the impact of changing weather conditions such as temperature, humidity, and ultraviolet A (UVA) on skin health. This study examined the impact of a marine-based collagen tripeptide (CTP) derived from the skin of Nile Tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) oral supplement on skin properties in middle-aged women after adjusting for weather conditions. Seventy-four women aged 40-60 years took part in this 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Participants were randomized into either 1) 250 mg CTP supplement daily or 2) maltodextrin-dextrin placebo. The primary outcome, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and secondary outcomes skin hydration, elasticity, and wrinkling, were assessed at baseline, week 6, and week 12. Climate data (temperature, humidity, and UVA) was obtained throughout the study duration. After 12 weeks, there was a significant reduction in TEWL in the CTP group, relative to placebo, even after adjusting for temperature, humidity, and UVA. Additionally, there was a greater improvement in skin hydration in the CTP group, relative to placebo, though not statistically significant. According to a subgroup analysis, participants younger than 50 years of age in the CTP group showed significant improvement in total score and moisture in the skin improvement questionnaire after 12 weeks. Overall, participants tolerated the supplement well and, 12-weeks of supplementation with marine-based Nile Tilapia skin collagen tripeptides (250 mg daily) reduced water loss in middle aged women.
Access to the study: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7839319/
Reference: Tak YJ, Shin DK, Kim AH, et al. Effect of Collagen Tripeptide and Adjusting for Climate Change on Skin Hydration in Middle-Aged Women: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial. Front Med (Lausanne). 2021;7:608903. Published 2021 Jan 11. doi:10.3389/fmed.2020.608903
Efficacy and safety of skin radiance collagen on skin and hair matrix: A placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy human subjects
Collagen is an essential protein that plays an important role in maintaining the appearance of skin. Without collagen, the skin loses its elasticity, becomes thin, and develops fine lines and wrinkles. It is well known that lifestyle choices, environment, and other factors contribute to this process. This study assessed the efficacy and safety of a collagen and antioxidant supplement on skin and hair properties in healthy adults. Forty women aged 38-58 years took part in this 8-week placebo-controlled clinical trial. Participants were grouped into either; group A) 5 grams fish collagen peptide + antioxidant blend (vitamin C, E, hyaluronic acid, and biotin) or group B) maltodextrin placebo powder. Participants were instructed to consume their designated product with 100-200 mL of water daily. Skin and hair properties, including skin elasticity, hydration, brightness, pigmentation, texture, wrinkles, dryness, smoothness, fine lines, changes in crow’s feet region, along with hair strength and fall, were assessed at baseline, week 4, and week 8. After 8 weeks, there was a significant reduction in wrinkle depth and fine lines following supplementation in group A. Additionally, there was a significant reduction in crow’s feet wrinkles after week 4 and week 8 in group A, relative to placebo. A significant improvement in skin hydration and significant reduction in hair fall in group A after the intervention was observed. Overall, supplementation with 5-gram fish collagen peptide with antioxidant blend of vitamin C, E, hyaluronic acid and biotin demonstrated improved skin and hair properties after 8 weeks.
Access to the study: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38495912/
Reference: Trehan A, Anand R, Chaudhary G, Garg H, Verma MK. Efficacy and Safety of Skin Radiance Collagen on Skin and Hair Matrix: A Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial in Healthy Human Subjects. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024 Mar 11;17:581-591. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S438642.
Bottom Line
Collagen is an important protein utilized in various food, cosmeceutical, and pharmaceutical products due to its ability to enhance hair, skin and nail health. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) has increased bioavailability, digestibility, and absorbability compared to its counterpart. HC can be derived from bovine, chicken, and porcine sources; however, marine-derived HC has gained significant popularity for being a safer and more convenient option. Research suggests that HC may be efficacious in improving skin properties such as wrinkles, fine lines, and elasticity. It may also strengthen hair decrease hair loss, making HC a suitable supplement option.
References
Rahman, A., & Silva, T. H. (2022). Collagens from Marine Organisms towards Biomedical Applications. Marine Drugs, 20(3), 170. https://doi.org/10.3390/md20030170